We drove (the cattle) into town in the beginning of June. At least, I felt both like we should be driving cattle, and that we were cattle, after forty or so hours in the Blue Donkey.
Lander does not rise elegantly into the mountain range; we came in from the southeast, and never have I seen so much lonely and brown-tone space, sad places with desperate names like "Sweetwater"; places along the Oregon Trail where I am sure many silent and unmarked corpses lay- remains of those brave hearts, the innocent and weak who died of exhaustion and thirst after months, not hours, in their wagons. I looked across this high desert on our way to Lander and felt absolutely naked and lonely and empty- and afraid. "Hell's bells, what if this is what Lander looks like?"
Suddenly, as we sped through the hot afternoon, the road slithered like a rattler in between red-rock canyon walls- we were goin' down. As we went down, I saw the Wind Rivers raising their heads off in the distance, snowcapped, green-swathed, looking like huge forms in royal robes but ever turning away, with their robes fanned out on the high desert scrub plains. They are mysterious mountains, with much promise of adventure spilling out of their canyon-gateways.
Lander is snuggled in a valley amidst the folds of the Winds' hems. Coming in from the south, the road widened in a proud way, and the sign which said "Lander" had an iron silhouette of a prairie woman on it. "Good", I thought, "that'll be me in a couple years- maybe less, depending on how hard it is."
In the evening, we were taken to our temporary accommodations, the "Dillon View Apartments", on Dillon Road. I wondered why on earth you'd name an apartment complex after the view of the road it is on: I might be wrong, but this kind of thing says something about Wyoming- so practical that it is funny. Or maybe Dillon is that great, white peak of a mountain with his one eye always on us. Anyway, we settled in, glad for a bed- even if there were only four beds for five of us. I had, after all, learned something in Canada: simple gratitude- and I would not trade that lesson for anything. Au revoir, Canada (until re-seeing).
We spent our first weeks in Lander among the working poor, next to the Family Dollar store, McDonald's and a gas station, which for some reason, played rock music from various speakers night and day. We met our first friends in the apartments: David and Debbie, a son and his mother (she was managing the complex), who were trying to make it without alcoholic Dad and another brother. David is a gem of a kid, who tries to make up for his complex life by telling us stories of his horse. It conveniently got killed when our kids wanted to go and see it. Nonetheless, David and Debbie made our first weeks joyful- water fights, climbing trees, kickball with a pockmarked nerf basketball, the works. It was truly joyful, like the face of God peeking through the scrub brush.
We saw the Indian families who are trying to make a life off the reservation, working long hours and very infrequently out for a leisure walk. One family had the strange habit of opening their car door without looking to see if anyone or anything was in the way. We all learned the Dillon rule #1: Never park beside the white SUV with "Roman" and Indian feathers on the back.
In Lander, I noticed right away that there is still a very strong racial divide- in appearance as well as daily life- between the Indians and the cowboys' descendants. There are many blond and blue-eyed Scandinavian types, with delicate features, and they cut quite a contrast with the wide-cheek-boned, dark and braided Indians. I felt that under the modern veneer of jeans and cars, I was still looking the Old West right in the face: and like my first months in Canada, I sensed people tougher than myself. I remember being at City Park with the kids at the same time that about a hundred Indian children were there, kids in The Shoshone Boys and Girls Club. We were there for about an hour, and as we were leaving, a nearly lone blond kid, about five, dressed to the nines in a cowboy outfit, came ridin' in on his bike. I couldn't help thinking that he was about to get scalped.
The Indians, I am told, are a people heartbroken. Looking at the high desert, the mysterious peaks of the Winds, the canyons and arching sky, I wondered if their heart was broken because they could be nomads no more. This country seems to call for the nomadic spirit; and the Indians seem to carry a certain frustration in their black eyes; a certain shift in the reflection of the light conveys this. I saw a photograph of the Shoshone Powwow Queen, or something like that, and she stood proudly dressed in white leather Indian wear next to a bareback horse, on a rock in one of the canyons- and I saw what they would like to be, instead of the heavy, Cadillac-drivin' misfits they often are. Sound harsh? I'm becoming a Wyomer already. However, there are those Indians who still live, to some extent, the spirit of this country: The highlight of the 4th of July Rodeo was watching the Indian relay races. To see them going full tilt bareback, and jumping off midstream to alight with elegance on the next horse is an eye-opening experience. To see them cheered raucously by every Wyomer there is a great experience.
The cowboys, on the other hand, are tough people full of surprises and practical jokes. I was at McDonald's, sitting rather dog-eared by the infernal PlayPlace, when I noticed two cowboys exit a massive truck with a cistern tank in the back and a horse trailer behind- how much equipment do you need? Anyway, ears suddenly up, I noticed another cowboy sitting near me. I eavesdropped (cultural research, of course). The conversation was between this old, rusty cowboy and another guy and centered around the expected: water levels and fishing spots... the the old guy, tough-looking, mentioned how he was 'a fixin something and was havin trouble. "Yeah, yeah", I thought. The other guy asked him what it was, and he said, "Well, its my damn sewing machine- stitches a couple stitches and then jus gives out- can't seem to get it right." The other guy, sympathetically, "Oh, I'm sure it'll come out alright." I couldn't figure out if they were serious or knew I was listening.
The local gas station is named "The Maverick" and the nice inn in town is "The Pronghorn". Doesn't make you want to stay there, does it? Speaking of pronghorns, there is a mysterious yard absolutely filled with horns of some deer-thing. When I saw that, I wanted to throw up right there. There are the NOLS types: granola, crunchy, tasty (oh, sorry, went too far with that one) types who know all about survival but usually nothing about salvation. There are the country-club types who drive souped-up Cherokees and Land Rovers, and I wonder, "Why are you here and not in Santa Barbara?" I guess in Santa Barbara they'd be living at the "Whatever View" apartments, and they know it, so they stay here.
Don't get me wrong, I like it here: there is a saying which I think has truth in it: "Wyoming is as America was". There is an adventurous, open, friendly, realistic spirit which, I think, fires the ancestral blood in me. My father's white trash family came West in the 1800s, to become something more than that trash label they had in Illinois: they came West through these deserts and mountains, and became ranchers in Eastern Washington. They were the blue-eyed, tall blonde people I see here. Some say I must have Indian blood, too: one day, I wore my almost-black hair braided down the back as I often do, and I was ridin' my iron horse, Diamond Back, through town, imagining the wheel tread sound was the sound of pounding hooves. I was eight again; suddenly pulled from my fantasy world, I happened to see some Indian kids on the other side of the road. Seeing me, one of them slowly and deliberately put his hand up in the "How" sign. I realized that they thought I was one of them. How different-and lovely- that is.
Howdy, Wyoming.
image: www.flickr.com : "Darkness, Darkness 8" by Crick3
